Flight on the Balkan Holidays aircraft, although basic got us to the arrival airport of Plovdiv (again very basic) on time and in one piece. Transfer from the airport to the resort was long and took us on a seemingly never ending journey, snaking through the mountains in a near empty coach. Whilst the scenery around was appealing after what seemed 4 hours of travelling on the coach, one part of the mountain looked very much like the last and the fading daylight turned into darkness, as the coach's content fell asleep almost as dramatically as the backdrop outside. Although seeing the mountain in lights when entering the resort of Bansko was well worth the long coach journey.

Pleasantly surprised by the quality of this hotel. On checking in we were given a king sized deluxe room on the first floor, which easily catered for our week stay in Bansko. It was hot (on many occasion's we had to leave the window open all night), comfortable, clean (tidied and replenished every day) and accommodated our every needs. The king size bed was nice, the lounge area good for relaxing in and the television (the little we used of it) gave decent output. But the best part was the bathroom, just like the brochures show. We had fresh towels every day with many items of bathroom products already in. Good quality toilet roll, shampoo, bathrobes and a decent sized bath that oozed hot water when ever we required - just what the muscles needed after a day on the slopes.

Food in the hotel was of decent plentiful proportions although never the hottest - although the cakes were very nice. The daily menu changed, and it was good to see that drinks on the morning were free (coffee/juice). Dinner often consisted of a soup, meat, vegetables and salad, breakfast was continental - with sausage, sliced cold meats, eggs, bread and of course beautiful Bulgarian cheese with every meal.

We asked our ski instructor 'Jim' the reason why Bulgarian food was not served piping hot or like 'Britons are used to', the reply from Jim was that this was a cultural thing, and that many Bulgarian's feel that hot food would hurt their stomach - so since we were in Bulgaria and not the UK, we were happy to sample the Bulgarian life in all the facets possible. Also speaking with many Britons staying in the Hotel at the same time, they too were delighted with the hotel with many planning to return again next year. A family of Scottish people were delighted with how the hotel catered for children.

Prices. Not a lot really to say about them, other than they were low, very low. We could happily drink with our evening meals or in the comfortable lounge bar area without thinking of the price. A Coke for 3lev, Baileys for 4lev - excellent value for money. Ski storage (hired equipment) was stored free of charge inside a locked area within the hotel, whilst safety deposit boxes set you back 12 lev for the week - again not very expensive.

We had a well stocked mini bar in the room, which was again well stocked and again prices here were not expensive. Room service was also available free of charge, with prices not at all expensive. 0.50 lev for a local tea was excellent value for money, 11.00 lev for a bottle of good Bulgarian wine again excellent value - all came quickly by the hotel staff - who did not express that they wanted tipping

Staff. The Hotel Bansko staff, do let what is a terrific hotel down, although we do truly believe that this may just be the Bulgarian way, and on some occasion's we did get a smile for the staff and a thank you and many could speak some English. The customs in Bulgarian are perhaps different to what you may expect and the standard of English not the best, but with time and as the whole resort develops the attitude and mannerism's of the hotel staff should develop also. It was nice that on the final night we were left with a positive impression with bar staff and reception staff going out of their way to offer good thoughts and asked if we had enjoyed the hotel and found the room to be fine.

Facilities. Great pool, not the warmest though, with a well-functioned fitness room. The sauna offered great relief. Massages were available for 15 lev (15 minutes) or 30 lev for 30 minutes. You could also play pool, table tennis or a few computer games. The hotel also had a well-stocked clothes shop, but was close to a good value ski shop just yards from the hotel. It supposedly had a karaoke bar, but we never went to this bar, although Balkan Holidays held and event on the Thursday evening there.

The hotel runs a ski bus from the hotel to the lower cable car station every 20 minutes from 08:30 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:30, which we found to be very accommodating taking around 5 minutes in total.

Location. This was not the best. Slightly away from the slopes although the free ski bus compensated this and opposite the hotel was what could only be described as a mere bomb site. Bansko in this respect certainly needs tidying up, although we do understand that this should be improved by next season. It was in close proximity to the central square of the old town and close to the taverns, food shops and the main night club 'Amnesia'.

This was quicker and a lot easier than we expected and the equipment was all new and present season stuff. Very nice Salomon boots, skis and poles, and you could get them waxed free of charge in the very impressive lower gondola station, where a flat screen television showed you moving images of the slopes above.

It took us less than 40 minutes to have all our ski equipment, passes and start the first journey of many of the gondola. Although it did take a little longer to get started with ski school. The ski equipment was all new Solomon skis and boots and of a good standard

Returning the equipment was just as easy on the Friday afternoon as it was when we collected the equipment, quick, easy and painless.

Top marks to Bansko for the ski rental!!!

Before we went, we were very excited at the prospect of visiting this new ski resort labelled by one of Italy's greatest skiers as "The Best new ski resort in Eastern Europe" and we were not disappointed.

Runs were plentiful conditions improved by the abundance of fresh snow, encompassed amongst wooded pistes and delightful rugged mountains. The scenes up the 30 minute cable-car ride were breath-taking and worth the ski pass money alone. We did not find this delay to our daily skiing a bother, and was nice to be able to look at the scenery as the new cable car speedily made it's way up the mountain. Although after the fresh snow it was possible to ski down the 7km Ski run 1, which in itself was very leisurely.

The one thing we would point out, that Bansko is NOT for complete beginners as the nursery slopes are limited to one, and after the fresh fall of snow the slope was very slow and impractical to learn on. The step up for beginners really is not there at Bansko and you really are best suited if you are a competent skiier. This leading onto the ski school. We both had the complete beginners class and although the instructor tried his best at times he was left wanting.

We had 11 people in our class, but the fact that others progressed quicker than others went begging and one by one many became disheartened by the ski school. We believe that this cam be justified by the fact that Bansko is not the ideal place for beginners, although we enjoyed ourselves in Bansko.

The starting time both in a morning and after lunch was very 'hit and miss' and it is well worth noting that you never really got the full 4 hours. It did leave us very frustrated at times, again really highlighting that Bansko is best suited to those that do not require ski school. We had great reports from skiers and snowboarders of the quality of the Bansko slopes, although the fresh snow helped to improve things in the early part of the week and freezing fog created a few issues on the last day.

Life on the mountain is lively. Although we did not get to experience much of the mountain, music boomed out of the lively restaurant at the top gondola station. Although the food was decent and relatively cheap, it was perhaps a little more money than we were expecting, although chips and cheese only cost 5 lev - although there was no sign of the soup for 70p!

When we did move around the mountain it was disappointing that to move from the top gondola station to the Shiligarnik area of the resort if you could not ski a red run, you had to take a 10 minute journey on a very old and clapped out bus, which quite frankly would fail an MOT in the UK. Although the return journey could be done by a quick ski road where you could practice speed skiing and turns, through a wooded path. The lifts we used and from what we heard about them were quick and of a good quality and the SKIDATA contactless pass never let us down, although you do need to make sure you are close to the sensor or it will not pick you up. Wearing it on the left often was the easiest method of quick access.

The weather at Bansko was the very best. On the Sunday we were left with sunburned (now tanned nicely!!) faces by the next day we had loads of snow and snowing in very heavy big flake snow. The conditions of the slopes were kept in good condition by the piste machines that were often very active throughout the day. When we arrived at resort level had no snow, by Wednesday it had at lest 3 feet of snow, although this was thawing slightly by the Friday afternoon. We were told that the snow was a season best on the slopes and at 'hotel level' the best snow for many years.

Bansko was as we expected more than just a ski resort. Having gone on the 'tavern trail' with Balkan Holidays visiting many taverns along the way and ending up in the night club it was a treat to see so many different aspects of this culturally rich old town. Although some customs (the photos on the walls/fences) are strange to the British tourist, it is worth remembering that this IS a town and not just a tourist focal point. Due to the style of the streets and the run down areas you are often left looking for the Russian military presence.

The people we met, the taverns we ate and drank in, they were all friendly and welcoming and we never felt pressured into buying anything we did not want to, nor was there anyone coercing you into their place. Food in the town was hot and reasonable, beer was good. Some taverns did not charge a service charge; others did usually 10%. Entertainment in the bars was Bulgaria and friendly. The old town gave a great cultural awareness and at times whilst 'celebrating' the culture with the local people you forget that you was actually on a skiing holiday. A visit into the town was a necessity and perhaps for us proved to be better than the skiing itself - and generally we always felt safe whilst investigating the town, although at night-time the dimly lit streets can pose a little mysterious.

From what we were told there are plans to increase the number of slopes and lifts within the piste area of Bansko, the main one to replace the clapped out bus with a chair lift from the top gondola station to Shiligarnik.

There are also plans to develop the hotel side of the town and improve the image thus reinforcing the Bansko brand as a quality tourist place

It is almost impossible to spend money in Bansko. We enjoyed the hotel food, so found that by eating in the hotel towards the end of the holiday we were giving the Lev away. When you can buy a 500ml Coke for 1Lev in the town, it was really difficult to spend money. Although perhaps not as cheap as you would think on the slopes, the quality of the food was good.

We met so many people whilst on holiday in Bansko that to name them would give an almost endless list. All were great fun and helped the week to pass through enjoyably. From the skiing group to people in our hotel to others who had come on our flight, really do help to make a skiing holiday fun. Some posted on this board, others viewed, whilst others had looked at bulgariaski.com without viewing the board, and others we told about it.

Of course!!!

However, we will not go to Bansko for about 5 years. It would be pleasing to see how Bansko develops and ages after that time, and to see how we both progress as skiers. Bansko is not for the uninitiated, Bansko is not for the beginner, but Bansko is the very best for competent skiers and snowboarders.

We will be going to Bulgaria again because we enjoyed ourselves very much so. We found the local people, the culture and the way of life extremely pleasing and the value for money is scarily very good. We are thinking of Pamporovo due to it looking like it has a good number of green runs and looks more suited to the beginners.

Bansko: A old town basking under the mysterious peaked backdrop of the Pirin mountains, where a winter wonderland adventure can be had by both skiers and snowboards, who can then revel in lively cultural apres-ski

Many thanks for taking the time to read the Ski 2004 Report from Bansko, Bulgaria. It is our hope that you found it interesting and informative

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